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A Specific Hot Hide Glue Question http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=9813 |
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Author: | SimonF [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:26 am ] |
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Up until this point, I have been french polishing my instruments and attaching the bridge with LMI white glue. I use a vacuum bridge clamp and align the bridge with locating pins. During cleanup I usually put a few small scratches in the finish - just because that is easy to do with french polish and you can make it look like new in a matter of minutes, anyway. However, from here on out I will be using Addam Stark to spray a lacquer finish for me. This means I don't have the luxury of touching up the finish should it get scratched. I really would like to switch to hot hide glue especially for the bridge - some just arrived today from LMII and my guitar will be arriving from Addam by the end of the week. Because of my setup, I can move pretty quickly. However, I have a few questions. I have heard that if you let hot hide glue dry to a certain point, it can chip lacquer. My concern is how should I proceed with vacuum clamping a bridge with hot hide glue? Should I heat the bridge in the microwave to buy some open time? If so, how long in the microwave. How long do I need to keep the vacuum clamp going before I should clean up squeeze out? Do I use a damp cloth or does that run the risk of weakening the newly formed bridge joint? Are clamping forces similar for hide glue and PVA glues? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Simon |
Author: | JJ Donohue [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:54 am ] |
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Simon... ...I heat my bridge for 10-20 seconds on high...if you can't hold it, it's too hot. If you're already pin-aligning the bridge you're saving a lot of time. You should be able to do this with time to spare. As always, rehearse before going to the dance. ...I don't vacuum clamp so I can't comment ...Why not lay some drafting tape (low tack)down next to the bridge to catch most, if not all of the squeezeout? |
Author: | John How [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:59 am ] |
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My latest bridge clamping procedure, using HHG: After buffing the finish, I put a coat of Carnuba wax on the top and then locate the bridge and rout the finish off in that area. I carefully wax only the sides of the bridge and then glue/clamp it on using HHG. After about 10-15 minutes I unclamp and clean up the glue. The glue almost falls of because of the wax and then I reclamp for an hour or so. |
Author: | Colin S [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 10:05 am ] |
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I heat my bridges, and braces, anything that is going to be joined using HHG on a food warming tray that I bought off Ebay. It sits next to the go-bar press and is thermostatically adjustable. I then use a hair dryer on the top. If the bridge position is carefully established and the outer holes drilled for pegs (I use the Stew Mac ones) the bridge can be glued in the correct position very quickly. I clean up after about 15 mins using a piece of sharpened spruce and then re-clamp. ![]() Colin |
Author: | SimonF [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 1:25 pm ] |
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Thanks guys, Normally I would just charge ahead and learn as I go but I am glad I didn't do that this time. The sharpened spruce is a great idea. If I remember, I will try and post some pictures of this guitar. I carved the neck out of wenge and thought some of you all might be interested in how it looks and whether it impacts the tone at all. == Simon |
Author: | crazymanmichael [ Wed Dec 13, 2006 2:54 pm ] |
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with the vacuum clamp the hhg squeezeout will usually become a gelled rubbery strip in about <10 minutes> depending on the strength of your vacuum and hhg mix. release clamp and clean up, reclamp for 5 min., check and cleanagain if necessary, reclamp for the balance of an hour or so, dependent again on vacuum and hhg mix strength. heating the briDge will help whilst you get your clamping routine worked out. i don't usually find it necessary unless the shop is quite cool in summer. |
Author: | Greg [ Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:38 am ] |
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Wax my bridge. That's what I'm going to try. |
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